My dad - who worked on everything from jet engines on down… used pretty much anything. It shames me to say and to speak ill of the dead… but Pop was an oil slob. Any mid grade oils would do; he didn’t give a chit! Same way with oil filters too. With two cycle machines he’d use 4 stroke oil to mix with the gas and dammit - I started doing it too…
But unlike Dad - I repented of my sins and became a morally pure-as-the-driven-snow Castrol man! My oil filters are all Fram. That was 20 years ago when I saw a third party study and those two came out tops. I wonder… is that still the case today?
Might be worth a deep dive investigation, maybe. 20 years is a loooong time.
I generally use the O'Reilly house brand. Sometimes Castrol, sometimes Quaker state. Whatever is priced the best depending on where I am. I've noticed zero difference. I do use WIX filters though. Heard to many complaints about Fram.
Now the bike? that's another story. Nothing but the best for it.
Back in the day when you had better religiously change every 3000 miles or else, I don't think it mattered so much what you used. Nowadays my truck tells me when to change oil and it's usually around 8000 or 9000 miles, and that's with frequent heavy load towing. In that case, you better be using synthetic and a good grade too.
And I've seen those u-tube reviews where all filters were either equally crap or equally great, or this one or that one was better but someone else said the exact opposite. I use K&N when I can find it, otherwise Fram or the store brand. I don't know that it makes any difference, really.
My '65-'69 auto shop teacher said paraffin based oil is better than crude based oil and synthetic is best of all. He also stated oil is oil, it never wears out, the additives wear out. As long as you change it when due, everything should be good. I use whatever filters are on sale and change them every oil change. I've had 2 engines die so far. The old 1968 F-250 360 cu in motor threw a rod because a bearing cap nut unscrewed itself. The other was a perfectly fine 97 Toyota Corolla that had sudden onset oil leak. Spun a bearing going too fast on a high G, sweeping turn. Added oil, then limped home with it, 20 miles. I check fluid levels before leaving the homestead, every time. It's worked so far, but I'm one of those guys that fall into the "it's better to be lucky than good" category. Been doing my own oil and filter changes since I was 16, in 1967. Since I live with used engines and warm temps, I run 20-50 or 15-40, diesel rated oil. I always ran Shell, Rotella, until Costco contracted them to package it in Kirkland brand, now I use Kirkland. All that said, there's no downside to using the best you can find. On 2 strokes, I'm superstitious, I only run Husqvarna or Stihl, 50:1 mix in all my (6) saws, weed eater and leaf blower. That mix can be run in four strokes without problems, in a pinch.
I quit using Fram filters back in the 70s. No antiback flow valve and it installed upside down on the Wankle. Then there was the fact that Fram was the brand that was being counterfeited so one never knew if it was real or a can filled with TP.
With cars and trucks costing what they do now and engine tolerances being ridiculous as well i use only Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 filters. It is the only mandated setup for corvettes. 40 years ago with most engines and motorcycles, Id use castrol, thick as i could use especially summer. Then engines evolved and i switched to valvoline, until i bought a corvette and a new ram. Shiiite that ram runs 0W20 now. Full syn. As for filters back when $5 was a half tank i ran whatever was on sale. Then i moved on to better non-paper filters, now its all mobil 1. Years back some Indy crew with Valvoline sponsors got caught putting Mobil 1 in their car. Or maybe thats just one of them fairy tales for gear heads.
Oil is one thing... I did learn that in the case of filters though, one must take good care and due diligence in research. Hyundai OEM filters for certain vehicles have an anti-drain back feature that's very advantageous on start up. Particularly for turbo equipped engines.
I generally use the O'Reilly house brand. Sometimes Castrol, sometimes Quaker state. Whatever is priced the best depending on where I am. I've noticed zero difference. I do use WIX filters though. Heard to many complaints about Fram.
ReplyDeleteNow the bike? that's another story. Nothing but the best for it.
Back in the day when you had better religiously change every 3000 miles or else, I don't think it mattered so much what you used. Nowadays my truck tells me when to change oil and it's usually around 8000 or 9000 miles, and that's with frequent heavy load towing. In that case, you better be using synthetic and a good grade too.
ReplyDeleteAnd I've seen those u-tube reviews where all filters were either equally crap or equally great, or this one or that one was better but someone else said the exact opposite. I use K&N when I can find it, otherwise Fram or the store brand. I don't know that it makes any difference, really.
My '65-'69 auto shop teacher said paraffin based oil is better than crude based oil and synthetic is best of all. He also stated oil is oil, it never wears out, the additives wear out. As long as you change it when due, everything should be good. I use whatever filters are on sale and change them every oil change.
ReplyDeleteI've had 2 engines die so far. The old 1968 F-250 360 cu in motor threw a rod because a bearing cap nut unscrewed itself. The other was a perfectly fine 97 Toyota Corolla that had sudden onset oil leak. Spun a bearing going too fast on a high G, sweeping turn. Added oil, then limped home with it, 20 miles. I check fluid levels before leaving the homestead, every time.
It's worked so far, but I'm one of those guys that fall into the "it's better to be lucky than good" category. Been doing my own oil and filter changes since I was 16, in 1967.
Since I live with used engines and warm temps, I run 20-50 or 15-40, diesel rated oil. I always ran Shell, Rotella, until Costco contracted them to package it in Kirkland brand, now I use Kirkland.
All that said, there's no downside to using the best you can find.
On 2 strokes, I'm superstitious, I only run Husqvarna or Stihl, 50:1 mix in all my (6) saws, weed eater and leaf blower. That mix can be run in four strokes without problems, in a pinch.
I quit using Fram filters back in the 70s. No antiback flow valve and it installed upside down on the Wankle. Then there was the fact that Fram was the brand that was being counterfeited so one never knew if it was real or a can filled with TP.
ReplyDeleteWith cars and trucks costing what they do now and engine tolerances being ridiculous as well i use only Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 filters. It is the only mandated setup for corvettes. 40 years ago with most engines and motorcycles, Id use castrol, thick as i could use especially summer. Then engines evolved and i switched to valvoline, until i bought a corvette and a new ram. Shiiite that ram runs 0W20 now. Full syn. As for filters back when $5 was a half tank i ran whatever was on sale. Then i moved on to better non-paper filters, now its all mobil 1. Years back some Indy crew with Valvoline sponsors got caught putting Mobil 1 in their car. Or maybe thats just one of them fairy tales for gear heads.
ReplyDeleteHoly crap! Yep… it’s time for a deep dive, A… and possibly a change? Thanks for bringing that up…!👍
DeleteOil is one thing... I did learn that in the case of filters though, one must take good care and due diligence in research. Hyundai OEM filters for certain vehicles have an anti-drain back feature that's very advantageous on start up. Particularly for turbo equipped engines.
ReplyDeleteNever use Pennzoil or Quaker state where there is winter. Shit gels upin coldweather.
ReplyDelete